Over about two months each year, roughly from second half of April until the Summer Solstice, I am serenely happy, no matter what is happening in the world. That’s because, traditionally from around St George’s Day on 23 April, British asparagus season opens.
Asparagus plant belongs to the Lily family, Liliaceae, and it looks like a supersized rosemary branch when it grows. There are lots of subspecies of asparagus around the world, most of them types of fern, including ornamental asparagus which you can often find in elegant flower bouquets and arrangements.
There are several varieties of edible asparagus, with ghostly white asparagus grown without daylight like mushrooms, the purple variety originating from Italy and the green or garden asparagus – the One, as far as I’m concerned.
The name is of Greek etymology, meaning ‘sprout’ or ‘shoot’, rather unimaginatively. A much nicer albeit bastardised name for it, ‘sparrow grass’, was popular in parts of England from 18th through 20th century.
And finally, the best known asparagus fun fact: the ‘asparagus pee’ phenomenon. After eating asparagus, some people find their visits to the loo transformed by the peculiar fragrance it gives to urine. It does not affect everyone and the reason might be genetic, due to presence of a particular enzyme in our bodies, or completely random. Even more interestingly, only some people can smell it. And to confound things further, we may find the odour attractive or repugnant.
I absolutely love it, so on top of delicious meals I have the olfactory perk each spring as well. So let’s stock up – or rather the contrary, as asparagus is the best the freshest – on those tender spears and get cooking.
Or not, as it might be because fresh asparagus is delicious raw, shaved into a salad. If you decide to cook it, snap or cut off the woody ends and process them briskly and simply. I’ve seen recipes for braised asparagus, asparagus in fancy sauce but fresh product is the key. You won’t spoil it by braising, but why bother, if it will be absolutely delightful steamed or boiled?
Plunge a bunch into salty, boiling water and drain after three minutes. There is a reason why Roman Caesar Augustus’ favourite command was: ‘Velocius quam asparagi conquantur!’ which means ‘faster than asparagus cook!’
Then you can obviously shower them with Parmesan, anoint with good butter or slather with homemade mayonnaise or hollandaise.
For variety (because over eight weeks even asparagus cooked the same way will get slightly dull), cook them in butter, or grill them with almonds. Get a wok out and make spicy stir fried asparagus with chillies and garlic. That’s a great side dish, while beef and asparagus, or velvet fish and asparagus are excellent Asian-flavoured mains featuring our star.
If you prefer pasta with asparagus, it couldn’t be easier. Or maybe with couscous and pistachios? With new potatoes and pancetta?
For lunch or a snack, wrap the spears in filo and bake. And you can also use them as the base for a sublime, springtime risotto. Happy asparagus season!