Unless a Beast from the East or an Arctic Blast creeps in in March, we’re done with winter. And what an absolute bake it was too! I’m not a fan of extreme frosts and blizzards (unlike some people), but I abhor the mild, wet, slushy, muddy, hideous permanent October conditions that we’ve had since, well, October. So now I’ve had totally enough of meteorological, astronomical, anything-but-proper winter and I want spring. I WANT SPRING!
Especially that, defying the showers intermittent with drizzle, first crocuses and now daffodils are engulfing my garden. You can’t look at them and not crave asparagus soldiers with eggs! Or is it just me?
Unfortunately, daffs are not only inedible but seriously poisonous so please don’t test that knowledge. Much better to wait for asparagus season.
What to cook and what to eat during what is called the Hungry Season or Hungry Gap? Technically, that’s a farming term, referring to the period when winter crops are finished and the fields are empty before the new season produce. Obviously, these days you wouldn’t even know it was a thing because of imported or greenhoused fruit and vegetables which means nobody actually goes hungry, though certainly not with environmental impunity. So perhaps we can curb our tomato and aubergine buying habits just a little, and eat more of the traditional Hungry Gap foods like cabbage, root vegetables and potatoes from the winter crop, especially that eating tubers turns out to be one of the keys to longevity?
And fear not, it’s not just cabbage and potatoes, though this gratin is truly gorgeous. No need to go cold turkey on tomatoes (cold tomato?) as we can use tins, far tastier than the watery, pale polytunnel fruit. Any green vegetables, sweetcorn, cauliflower and even broccoli will be best bought frozen. And not only taste matters because we’ll be able to feel smugly responsible when we refuse to buy air-flown stuff.
With (seasonal, and abundant) venison casserole you can have a winter rainbow salad of cabbage, onions and carrots. Who says winter produce cannot be vibrant?
Craving that asparagus could be relieved with leeks, which are one of the hardiest winter vegetables and actually sometimes called poor man’s asparagus. Caramelised leek tart, a leek and potato bake or pasta with leeks and mushrooms – it’s not only soup they are good for.
A few sausages and parsnips make a brilliant tray bake. Dried or tinned beans will make a fantastic pork and bean chilli. Dried wild mushrooms are often nicer than fresh – try spelt risotto with porcini. And red cabbage is not just a Christmas side: quick and easy to prepare, serve it with partridge or pheasant, still available from butchers or supermarket and incredibly good value.
Don’t say you don’t like winter cabbage until you’ve tried Swedish kalpudding. Don’t diss squash: cook it with cheesy custard. And for dessert bake a jam tart: another time-honoured use of fruit in winter. Happy cooking!