Garlic clams

Happy as a clam

The popular adage is actually sneaky – it doesn’t mean clams are cheerful little molluscs because, how would we even know? The full phrase is ‘happy as a clam at high tide’ and it means they are safe from being picked when tide comes up to cover their ocean abode. Not so happy! just not terrified in the face of peril.

In other linguistic departments they don’t have good press: clammed up, closed like a clam, clammy hands. Those similes are totally undeserved because clams are one of the nicest sea creatures, much tastier than whelks or sea snails, and easier to prepare and cook than mussels.

Linguni alla vongole or clam chowder are the most popular clam dishes and you should be pleased to know my recipe is for a preparation that will take you halfway towards either. But clams are just as tasty swimming in garlic sauce mopped up with a bit of crusty bread.

How to clean clams?

Very easily. Unlike with mussels which need debearding, de-barnacling and de-whatnot, all clams require is rinsing with cold water and picking any that are crushed or damaged. They better not be, considering their price.

If they are trying to open up, tap the shell against the sink to make them – he, he – clam up. If they refuse, discard.

If you’re not cooking them straight away, place them in a bowl in the fridge, covered with a double layer of wet paper towel.

How to cook clams?

Even easier. Basically, all you need to do it place them in a pot with a lid and heat up until they open. It’s the same approach as you might take with mussels, simple and effective.

But what would be the point of me if I didn’t suggest something a little more delicious and pleasing? It’s still very easy but makes a dish rather than an ingredient.

Butter and lots of garlic – that’s the base for the sauce. You can press the garlic directly into the pan, onto foaming butter. Let it cook for a minute to soften, making sure it doesn’t brown.

The cooking liquid of my choice is a combination of dry white wine and vermouth, but you can swap the latter for sherry. If you have half a good beef stock cube or a teaspoon of beef concentrate, add it in but it’s not essential. It just adds to the umami that the clams themselves carry.

Boil that boozy soup down to reduce and thicken, then add the clams, all at once. Cover the pan with a lid and wait for a couple of minutes, giving the pan a good shake halfway through. Once all the clams open, they are ready. Discard the ones that won’t open – they didn’t make it to your kitchen.

How to use garlic clams?

So how to utilise and consume these little beauties in the nicest way? One way is crystal clear, linguini or spaghetti alla vongole, pasta with clams. All you need to do is cook pasta, stir the clams and their sauce through it and shower with Parmesan.

But they are also delightful on bruschetta, drizzled with a little of the sauce, not too much so the bread doesn’t get soggy. Shaved Parmesan and fresh chopped herbs will complete the plate.

You can also toss the clams with freshly cooked noodles and sprinkle with furikake seasoning.

Plus of course, with some stock, cream and potatoes they will turn into delicious chowder.

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Hot butterflied tiger prawns in a spicy marinade by Ottolenghi. Grill them, fry them or barbecue them as long as you’re quick – they only need a minute in the pan.

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