I like a savoury take on a dessert dish. You expect a roasted peach, honey and pillows of whipped cream or mascarpone and here’s blue cheese with its sharp, salty sting. The crumble should be sweet but it’s not, it’s plain and cinnamoney.
I’m never too sure what to do with peaches. As fruit goes, they are a bit weird: overgrown apricots, apples with a stone, sweet avocados. Can’t jam them (why?), not good to put on a cake (or are they?) or to juice (hmm – no), all they ever feature in is a horribly old fashioned peach melba or an awfully poncy poached peach with amaretto compote or some such concoction. Skin them or not? Eat with a knife and fork like my Gran or bite into it and get covered in juice all over? In truth the only application of the thing that appeals is in a savoury manner.
Try making a peach salsa for a duck magret – that’s right, duck a la pèche. Quarter it and skewer on a kebab stick alternating it with pork tenderloin and fatty bacon – you’re in for an exceptional barbecue. Peach and breadcrumb stuffing for game? One to try soon. Peach and blue cheese – and that’s exactly what we have here.
It can be a smart starter or a pudding for a sugar-spurning party. It could be a pre-dessert, a cheese course substitute – or simply a damn nice lunch which is how I had it.