Crispy fried minced pork with noodles and a cucumber salad, called ‘ants climbing a tree’ in Sichuan cuisine. Traditionally glass vermicelli noodles are used for this tasty Asian bowl, but I suggest egg noodles; simply to provide the ants with more traction…
Ants climbing trees
Ants climbing trees is not the most appetising dish name but very apt. Traditionally made with glass noodles, the little bits of crisp fried pork mince are crawling around the strands of noodles, with an odd bit of greenery/spring onion/chillies masquerading as leaves.
Pork mince is undervalued
Caramelised, well-seasoned fried pork mince is the cheapest (decent quality though), simplest and absolutely delicious meat fix when you think you’re really a bit hungrier than just a bowl of noodles and veg.
Oriental fashion is the way to go as the variations on mince elsewhere, albeit tasty, always involve copious saucing of the meat. Not the climbing ants: they are crisp but not dry, caramelised but not burned, no sauce requiring micro-bits of satisfaction.
Cook mince crisp
Pork mince is used so well in Vietnamese, Korean and of course Chinese dishes that it’s almost shameful to think what we have to show for it in Europe. Meatballs, meatloaf, Bolognese sauce (when beef is scarce); it seems we can only clump the ground pork together, as if trying to reconstitute it back into a ham, or make it float in tomato sauce.
So much better to let it jump around a large hot pan, crispen up and caramelise so that each little bit of the ground pork stands on its own.
Crispy pork, not just with noodles
I would take this crispy pork further because it’s so gorgeous. Not just on trees, but I’d have ants crawling out of tacos, lugging chunks of jalapenos on their backs. I’d have them all over pappardelle or linguine. I’d set an anthill upon a baked jacket potato and get them swimming in a puddle of crème fraiche. I’d make them invade a lettuce bowl, swarm a pizza and – best of all – have an epic ants-and-gherkin sandwich on thick fresh sourdough. Watch this space!